Wednesday, July 17, 2013

This Place I Call Home

This is the last week of my trip before I leave the country to return to America.  It is just a week longer that I will remain in Jordan, and even less time that I have at my job!

If you had asked me at the beginning of my trip if I would be missing this country, I would have given a mixed answer that bordered on no.  I was the only student in my group that was relegated to my own host family, unlike some of the other DukeEngage kids I was also working at my own organization, and there were no outside interns from other colleges or even highschools within my office to boot.  I also spoke no Arabic and did not know how to navigate myself through what seemed to be an immense city streaming with activity of all kid, both benevolent and .... not.

Of course, all of that changed throughout my stay.  I connected with my wonderful, attentive, generous host family and delighted in the company of my co-workers.  Our DukeEngage group not only became familiar with parts touristy parts of the city but began to immerse within Jordanian culture.  We explored all parts of the country, from other cities to Bedouin villages to the dessert and natural wonders.  I picked up the language and held my own against wolf-whistles and brazen taxi-drivers.  I bartered at shops, I realized exactly how late to show up at work so that I wouldn't be the first one waiting outside, learned to throw my toilet paper in the trashcan instead of the toilet, could cross highways brazenly during rush hour, stopped even noticing the military men standing outside with their rifles, and even felt comfortable engaging with locals.

One day I woke up and forgot that I was in another country, that I was in somebody else's home.  This country and home felt like my own, and still does.

What will it be like to return to the United States?  I wonder if it will take me some time to realize that I could drive around the roads in my own car instead instead of waiting for a taxi.  I wonder if it will feel strange that nobody blatantly stares at me whenever I walk around because I look different (...I sure hope not).  Or how long it will take me to realize that I can dress freely without worrying about harassment.

I wonder how long it will take me to fearfully miss my Jordan family and the people at work.

Like Hala, the cheerful Somalian receptionist at work always greets me at work with a smile.  On my first day of work, she happily directed me through the office (especially the kitchen and bathroom, the necessities as she called them) and then took me downstairs to the cafeteria to buy lunch.  Today she was gleefully running through the office, joking with the researchers, and told me that I looked like "an Indian princess from Disney" as she tugged on my braid.  As much as I disagree with this, I know that I will miss her.

I'm not so sure.............

And then there's my host sister Leen and my Mama.  Two days ago Mama's brother hosted a Ramadan party and invited their very large family over for Iftar (besides her and her brother she also has five other sisters).  Yes it was slightly awkward because they were all speaking in Arabic, but Mama and Leen would often come over and hug me, chat with me, encourage me to sample more of the traditional dishes.  At home we talk about Islam, Jordan culture, Egypt, and the work they do with refugees.  They are kind hearted people.

Yesterday I went to fast-walk again (read my earlier post about this for information).  Hala, one of the girls I had met last time, called me and asked if I was coming, to which I cheerfully acquiesced.  I was surprised that my Mama didn't blink an eye when I said I would be gone from 10pm to past midnight, but then again everyone stays out very late for Ramadan.

I met up with Omar and his friends at the fastwalk, including two high school girls who wanted to study abroad in America.  Olivia, a DukeEngage girl, was there with her adorable little host sister.  Omar and I met up with Hala, who brought Charlotte - a high-school girl she was hosting from New York, a quarter of the way through the walk.

To be perfectly honest, I had been dreading the walk before.  I was tired, it was dark, and the place was far from my home.  But talking with Hala, Charlotte, and Omar, I had a wonderful time!  They are also sweet and kind people - Omar even jumped over the railing of the highway to pick up my phone when I dropped it!  They were also very mature and responsible for their age, already working and talking about traveling through the world on their own.  They seem genuinely very interested in American culture and Asian culture and passionate about life.  At the conclusion of the walk, I was invited to spend time with them downtown in Amman next week and I can't wait to go with them!  Hala even offered to drive me home because she was worried that the taxi drivers would be dangerous at night (despite my protestations that I had gone back many times and it was quite safe).


Amman and Jordan have both its good and its bad, but don't all cities? With the friends I've made, the love of the culture and city that I have developed, I know that boarding the plane next week will be bittersweet. I will make sure to savor every second that I have left.

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